| Motorcycles and Twowheelers: Bike maintenance - "Proper installation of used motorcycle cables" Friday, 12 March, 2010 | Home | Suggest a Link |
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Part and parcel of owning a bike is maintaining its appearance and its capability. Nevertheless, despite making sure that the parts and cables of the motorcycle give us maximum service, we cannot but accept that they have their own warranties and lifetimes.
Unlike artwork or antiques, motorcycles are made to be used and abused. With all the elements found in the environment, a motorcycle part will definitely have its final day. When that day comes and you don't have enough money to buy new ones, why not settle for used motorcycle parts, e.g. cables? With a little tinkering and proper installation, they might just provide you the service you need for many years to come.
Here are some suggestions for proper installation of used motorcycle parts and cables:
Tip #1: Inspect and make sure you have the correct cable. This is the very first step in getting the best used cable you need. Inspect the used cable for any major wear and tear. Remember that these are used cables, so it will definitely have a few scratches; but the wear must not be so great that using it for just a few days will result in a total bust. After you have checked thoroughly, make sure you have the correct part for the application, e.g. correct cable ends, proper size casing ferrules, correct size, shape and thread size of adjusters/elbows, etc.
Tip #2: Make sure all adjusters are in "closed" position.
Tip #3: Use a direct route for the cables. Route your used cables from control to actuator in the most direct way possible. Keep cables away from hot surfaces and avoid sharp bends, as well as "kinks" in the housing or inner cable.
Tip #4: Adjust throttle/idle cables. These should be adjusted so that the carb/s will return to full close when off. Adjust any excessive free play and be sure throttle action is smooth and free, from open to full close, before starting the engine. Also make sure that the used cables do not bind together or hang up when there is full lock-to-lock movement of bars.
Tip #5: Make sure clutch/brake cables are routed properly. This is to avoid binding or hanging up the cables when there is full lock-to-lock movement of bars. Also, cables that are routed properly will not bind during compression of forks or suspension. Install lever and actuator fittings, adjust free play to correct specs and check for smooth, positive action. These are done before starting the bike.
Tip #6: Route the speedometer/tachometer cables using a direct path. Make sure that the cable will not hang up on the caliper when forks are compressed on the front wheel drive speedometer cable. This is what usually happens with aftermarket calipers because they often come in a larger size or different shape. Always make sure that the inner cable is well-lubed with light grease when installing and removing. Clean and re-grease regularly for maintenance.
Tip #7: Avoid having contact with painted surfaces when installing stainless steel braided cables. The braided surfaces of these used cables are very abrasive. You can use shrink or spiral wrap and/or cable guides when needed. And because stainless braided cables are less flexible, always keep this in mind when getting measurements for applications that are tailored according to your specifications. Clean and lube like any conventional cable assemblies.
And like any other used motorcycle parts, keep used cables clean and properly lubricated when necessary. Always check on the proper adjustments and inspect for any wear and tear on a regular basis. Signs to look out for are torn or worn housing, frayed wires, and signs of bending or kinking at the controls.
Do just about anything to your motorcycle, but forget the most basic and fundamental additive - Oil - and your wallet could be hanging loose for a long time.
How often you change the oil, the level you fill it up to and the kind of oil you use all make the difference between a bike that lasts and a bike that doesn't!
These are a few of the most basic tips when it comes to oil and motorcycles...
Over time and with prolonged use the integrity of the oil breaks down. Varies forces at work within
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Many years ago when I got hooked by motorcycles, I started to hear a lot about two and four stroke engines... It seemed there were (and there still are) strong opinions in pro and con of each of the engine types.
As Internet wasn't available, and as I was worried about other aspects or motorcycle riding back then, I left that question unanswered for a long time.
If this is your case or if you are interested in these two kinds of internal combustion engines, in the next few lines I hope to give you a few fast answers and some resources
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I strongly believe that knowledge is power. Especially when it comes to motorcycle maintenance. Why go to the stress and expense of having your local motorcycle shop perform your maintenance and upgrades when you can learn to do it yourself? And you know that if you do your own maintenance, that you will give the extra attention required to do a competent job. I doubt you can say the same for the underpaid and over-worked motorcycle service mechanic.
The other benefit of doing your own
motorcycle maintenance is that you learn more about your bike.
This has many benefits. You will be able to tell when
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You may ask yourself, what is a motorcycle fork stabilizer and why do I need one for my motorcycle? These are very reasonable questions to ask, especially since you have expected the motorcycle manufacturer to have given your motorcycle the highest performance suspension components available. I hope to answer these questions and many more within this motorcycle fork stabilizer article.
I first became aware of motorcycle fork stabilizers from the
Cycle Solutions (www.CycleSolutions.net) motorcycle
forums. Several members of the forum suggested that this was an
aftermarket part to install on your motorcycle. Being both
curious and ignorant I asked questions. Is this
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There is much to learn about motorcycle spark plugs. Actually, there is more than meets the eyes.
First, let us distinguish the important difference in spark plugs' threaded ends. They come in four diameters and lengths. They come in nominal 14, 10, 12 and 18 millimeters diameters. previously, there was a slight difference in thread configuration especially in different countries. However, the international standardization of the thread forms made it uniform. These new dimensions are now being followed by motorcycle parts manufacturers.
There can be lots of error in selecting the best motorcycle
parts, especially in the case of spark plugs. The very usual
error is using ¾-inch plugs in ½-inch
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