| Motorcycles and Twowheelers: Bike maintenance - "Proper installation of used motorcycle cables" Saturday, 4 September, 2010 | Home | Suggest a Link |
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Part and parcel of owning a bike is maintaining its appearance and its capability. Nevertheless, despite making sure that the parts and cables of the motorcycle give us maximum service, we cannot but accept that they have their own warranties and lifetimes.
Unlike artwork or antiques, motorcycles are made to be used and abused. With all the elements found in the environment, a motorcycle part will definitely have its final day. When that day comes and you don't have enough money to buy new ones, why not settle for used motorcycle parts, e.g. cables? With a little tinkering and proper installation, they might just provide you the service you need for many years to come.
Here are some suggestions for proper installation of used motorcycle parts and cables:
Tip #1: Inspect and make sure you have the correct cable. This is the very first step in getting the best used cable you need. Inspect the used cable for any major wear and tear. Remember that these are used cables, so it will definitely have a few scratches; but the wear must not be so great that using it for just a few days will result in a total bust. After you have checked thoroughly, make sure you have the correct part for the application, e.g. correct cable ends, proper size casing ferrules, correct size, shape and thread size of adjusters/elbows, etc.
Tip #2: Make sure all adjusters are in "closed" position.
Tip #3: Use a direct route for the cables. Route your used cables from control to actuator in the most direct way possible. Keep cables away from hot surfaces and avoid sharp bends, as well as "kinks" in the housing or inner cable.
Tip #4: Adjust throttle/idle cables. These should be adjusted so that the carb/s will return to full close when off. Adjust any excessive free play and be sure throttle action is smooth and free, from open to full close, before starting the engine. Also make sure that the used cables do not bind together or hang up when there is full lock-to-lock movement of bars.
Tip #5: Make sure clutch/brake cables are routed properly. This is to avoid binding or hanging up the cables when there is full lock-to-lock movement of bars. Also, cables that are routed properly will not bind during compression of forks or suspension. Install lever and actuator fittings, adjust free play to correct specs and check for smooth, positive action. These are done before starting the bike.
Tip #6: Route the speedometer/tachometer cables using a direct path. Make sure that the cable will not hang up on the caliper when forks are compressed on the front wheel drive speedometer cable. This is what usually happens with aftermarket calipers because they often come in a larger size or different shape. Always make sure that the inner cable is well-lubed with light grease when installing and removing. Clean and re-grease regularly for maintenance.
Tip #7: Avoid having contact with painted surfaces when installing stainless steel braided cables. The braided surfaces of these used cables are very abrasive. You can use shrink or spiral wrap and/or cable guides when needed. And because stainless braided cables are less flexible, always keep this in mind when getting measurements for applications that are tailored according to your specifications. Clean and lube like any conventional cable assemblies.
And like any other used motorcycle parts, keep used cables clean and properly lubricated when necessary. Always check on the proper adjustments and inspect for any wear and tear on a regular basis. Signs to look out for are torn or worn housing, frayed wires, and signs of bending or kinking at the controls.
There is much to learn about motorcycle spark plugs. Actually, there is more than meets the eyes.
First, let us distinguish the important difference in spark plugs' threaded ends. They come in four diameters and lengths. They come in nominal 14, 10, 12 and 18 millimeters diameters. previously, there was a slight difference in thread configuration especially in different countries. However, the international standardization of the thread forms made it uniform. These new dimensions are now being followed by motorcycle parts manufacturers.
There can be lots of error in selecting the best motorcycle
parts, especially in the case of spark plugs. The very usual
error is using ¾-inch plugs in ½-inch
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The most common types of bearings are wheel bearings. Motorcycle wheels have them, so do skateboards. The bearings help give you a smooth ride.
It was no less than Renaissance man himself, Leonardo Da Vinci who described a type of wheel bearing in his studies in the beginning of the 16th century. The invention of the wheel bearing, alongside the other inventions of the rebirth, is one of the most significant heirlooms of the era that have changed little over time. Leonardo da Vinci is said to have described a type of wheel bearing around the year 1500.
If you're wondering what
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With one of the warmest winters on record, the little Groundhog from Pennsyvania decided that he would see his shadow and call for 6 more weeks of winter. We all laughed at the little furry rodent. Especially with 60 degree motorcycle riding weather in the middle of February. Fast forward a few weeks and the east coast gets hit with a Nor-Easter storm. This storm dumped record snow fall from Washington, D.C. to New York. So now you find yourself unable to ride your Victory motorcycle. You need to do something so you decide to add a new custom part.
What I decided to do was upgrade the stock
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The amp/hour (AH) capacity is the basis for rating motorcycle batteries. For example, a 12AH battery can produce one amp of current flow for 12 hours, or two amps for six hours. In order to calculate the amount of time needed to use up a fully charged motorcycle battery by turning the lights on, we have to take power in watts, and divide it by voltage, which gives us the current draw in Amps. Therefore, a 72 watts beam and tail together, divided by 12 volts equals a 6-amp draw. So in 2 hours, the 12AH
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Many years ago when I got hooked by motorcycles, I started to hear a lot about two and four stroke engines... It seemed there were (and there still are) strong opinions in pro and con of each of the engine types.
As Internet wasn't available, and as I was worried about other aspects or motorcycle riding back then, I left that question unanswered for a long time.
If this is your case or if you are interested in these two kinds of internal combustion engines, in the next few lines I hope to give you a few fast answers and some resources
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